II. The sailor’s jacket
The sailor’s jacket is THE protective coat par excellence
. It is warm, water-resistant and functionally “technical”, protecting the nape with its wide lapel, the abdomen with the double buttons to close, according to wind direction, hands in chest pockets. No one has any doubts in this respect. However, if we talk about its history, then that is where the controversy begins and sources diverge. A military, but widespread origin
It may have been brought into Europe in the 15th century, by Spanish sailors or perhaps designed by the British Royal Navy in the 18th century. What we do know, is that it was adopted officially by most of our western navies in the 19th century, including the US navy, which kept it as its official uniform right through to the late 1990s. Its international name may have come from the Dutch “Pijjekker” (meaning “thick wool”), giving rise to “pea-jacket” and later “pea-coat” in English, or it could have been the natural evolution of the English P-Jacket (with “P” standing for pilot).
Whatever and however it came about, the jacket entered civil life
as soon as sailors could wear it, removing the military buttons. The birth of an icon Starting from the 1960s, it began inspiring fashion and the famous
Yves Saint Laurent opened up the doors to its women's wardrobe to it before creating a fragrance in its name in French: “Caban”. A great many other haut couture maisons followed, from Burberry to Smalto and Jean-Paul Gauthier.
Later, with cinema (Robert Redford, Daniel Craig/James Bond), music (Gainsbourg, Liam Gallagher) and comics (with Captain Haddock or Corto Maltese), it became iconic. So what now?
Today, it is used by both sexes, a masterpiece of casual men’s and women’s fashion alike. Perhaps because it is an eternal incarnation of adventure. It is versatile, comfortable and always chic
. Its original navy blue colour
facing forwards, together with the rest of the uniform and now perfectly combined with some chino trousers
and a jersey or a simple shirt
Simple, elegant and effective; ultimately unstoppable.